Sabado, Agosto 10, 2013

Plated Desserts On My Perspective

Hi! It has been really a while :)


and since I'm really trying my best to make this blog productive, my schedule wont always permit. Anyhow, this one I think is just timely to post and share..would like to remind everyone that these came from my own perspective and experieces only. You may or may not agree..I may also miss a thing or two, I'm still learning and trying to learn more :) In the end all I hope is that you get my ideas to help you compose your own dessert entry. 


I currently have 5 medals under this category..reminding you that I'm not an expert yet. Still learning, still studyng and still aspires to join more competitions until I get old. Haha. I'm grateful to be able to collect these concepts through practice and experience. I have been reading  really a lot and been browsing books for  inspirations and reference ever since I became passionate in competitions. This accounts the lessons learned; How to gear up? Kinda long entry to read, but please take your time, take notes, book mark it, share it chachacha and I hope in the end, I get to share my superpowers a.k.a patience to you. So, happy reading! 


Among reading books, there are some approach that I learned to adapt. They are basically few points to ponder,these are actually my interpretations:

1. Aesthetic Approach

This is basically the pictographic memory or concept of your dish or plate in your head. This is the most conveying. If you have an idea of how you would like to make your plate look like, this is quite useful. 

Example: 

Oval Rimless White Plate -> Cylinder Panna Cotta ( Light yellow color)  -> Tadpole of Red Sauce (Strawberry or Raspberry) ->  Small Diced Mangoes -> Textured Chocolate Cut into Squares (Green with specs of gold) = Mango Panna Cotta with Fresh Mango Salsa, Strawberry Sauce and Chocolate Croquant

Rectangular Rimless Black Plate -> Cube of White Dessert (Velvet Sprayed in White) -> Descending Dots of White Chocolate Ganache With Liquor -> 1 inch round White French Macaron (With Specs of Cocoa) -> Microgreens (Mint and Basil) -> Butter Cookie (Crumbled) = All White Dessert Plate Concept

2. Main Ingredient/ New Flavor Approach

This on the other hand is more commonly used and important in product development. In this approach, a particular flavor affiliations or main ingredient is used to conceptualize your plate.

Example: 

Apple ( Granny Smith) -> Tart Tatin -> Cinnamon Anglaise -> Star Anise Ice Cream ->Baked Apple Chips = Apple plate

Chocolate  -> Milk Chocolate Mousse ->  Graham Cookie Crust -> Raspberry Coulis -> Caramelize White Chocolate Shards -> Dark Chocolate And Sea Salt Discs = Chocolate Plate

3. New Method Approach

This approach is called New Method Approach so as to be able to utilize an existing dessert method/ cooking method to produce  another method. This is also appropriate for creating new flavor ideas in such a way flavors are improved or created through new methods.

Example: 

Popcorn - > Caramelized the cooked Popcorn  - > Puree the Caramelized Popcorn and add Simple Syrup-> Caramel Popcorn extract = Caramel Popcorn Mousse 

Black olives -> rehydrate the black olives in rehydrator -> grind the dried olives and strain = Black Olive Sand

Composing your dessert plate:

1. Composing your main component


Your main component should be the "star" of the plate. Choose your flavors well. Choose variety of methods, play with textures and be as creative as you can. Keep your plate palatable, edible and presentable.

If it is a trio or a quartet, make sure that the portion size of the each desserts are proportional; one should not outstand the other. It must draw connection and cohesiveness rather than confusion even if it is a dessert platter. If there are variety of flavors on one platter, arrange them the way one flavor will compliment the other.

If it is an ala carte plated dessert, the main component must showcase the main flavors well (especially if there is a main ingredent required)  and specific dessert method to be used. If it is layered dessert, show the layers evenly or with right proportion. If it is a dessert with multiple dessert method like a sphere of mousse with geleed center, make it neat and interesting. Again, your main component is your main flavor.

Example: 

Dome of  Strawberry Mousse (1st Method)
Smaller Dome of Baked White Chocolate Cheesecake, to be inserted in the center of Method 1 (2nd Method)

There must be a level of expertise if not,level of difficulty. In choosing which method to use, your foundations must serve as your guide. The basic methods based on the French culinary and pastry arts is your solid backbone. No matter how traditional, classical, fusion, modern to molecular you want to convey, it all goes back to mastering your basics.

2. Composing your sub component

The sub component produces the balance on the plate in terms of visual and also on flavor affiliations. The sub component must compliment or sharpen the main flavor. It  must have a purpose and connection with the main component, it should be put on right portion size so as it does not discriminate the main component. It is encouraged that it provides texture and variation of methods apart from the methods already used on the plate, and to use flavors that will go well together.

Example:

Red Wine Poached Strawberries (3rd component that gives another method and flavor)
Kisses shaped Almond Cookies (4th component that gives texture)

3. Creating your garnish

The garnish should be observed not only through aesthetics but also for practicality. Sugar nests or sugar domes made from Isomalt or caramel are old fashioned. Garnishes that are made too intricately are not practical. Height and shapes are encouraged as well as colors and textures. A hypothetical scenario that the judges will always consider. Is it practical for serving 1,000 plated service? 

Example:

Thin-long strand of dark chocolate (to be placed on top of the main component on a diagonal position to propose height)

4. Creating your sauce

The sauce on the plate will provide acidity or sharpness or sweetness depending on your flavor affiliations. Sauce may vary from ganache, curds, fruit coulis, anglaise, caramel, reductions, etc. The important things to remember for sauces are the right consisency, not too loose, not overly reduced. Enough portion size. Mouthfeel, the sauce should not be curdled or lumpy,it  should be smooth and not overly sweetened. It should compliment the other flavors.

Example:

Ample amount of Mango Coulis (5th component, presented as circular drizzles around the plate)

Things to consider in no particular order but equal importance:

1. Temperature

This simply means, Hot Plate- must be composed of plated  hot dessert,  must be served "hot" or warm. Cold Plate-must be composed of plated cold dessert, must be served "cold" or chilled. And we are talking about the main component, yes my friends.

On the other note under Temperature, It is encouraged that the plate be consist of variety of Temperatures; there are likeable temperatures (cold, chilled, hot, warm, room temperature etc.) and unlikeable temperatures (cold for hot plate, room temperature for cold plate, frozen for cold or chilled, burnt, etc.)

2. Temperature Sensitivity

Temperature sensitivy must also be given a further explanation. Given that we are situated of Hot Plate- Cold Plate, our sub components and garnishes must take under another perspective. We cannot place a sugar spiral on top of a panna cotta. We cannot scoop ice cream right on top of a molten lava cake that just came out of the oven. These are restaurant routines, do-able? Yes. But competition wise, it is a No-no.

Explanation: 

Sugar is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture in any environment. Place a sugar based decor on top of something cold, it will just absorb the moisture and sog.

Molten lava cake is served hot, and ice cream is served cold. Variety of temperatures? Yes. But a pool of melting ice cream on your plate is not presentable for display competition. For live competitions,  you may serve it on the side but not on top, make sure that the ice cream is set frozen as to let it thaw, not melt..as it go to the judges.

3. Aesthetic Balance 

The eye eats first. Plated Desserts is the sport of crazy pastry enthusiasts. I say this, because rather than just serving the plate as the canvass to your dessert masterpiece, it should come by the rules.But unlike sports, there are no rules; but there are restrictions. Plated Desserts is an edible art and gastronomical science in one.  You master and learn each method and skills and present them witn grandesque and creativity. It takes patience, hard work, creativity, resourcefulness and discipline.

The Aesthetic Balance must not only come from colors present on the plate. Not only on the textures visually presented. Not only on the height of the garnish. Not only by the variety of shapes.. More importantly it must create a good impression.

4. Balance of Flavors

Balancing of  Flavors is a call to a chef's judgement.  Some dishes taste good and looks interesting for the chef, but other people may not like it. We cannot defend by words and cannot keep on explaning the idea we want to convey. The talkativeness of the competitor will not put points on the score. The taste must justify on its own. The principle is We are serving guest, not ourselves.

Chef Johnny Iuzzini once said  during one episode of Top Chef Just Desserts Season 2 that "Sweetness is not a flavor". "If it leaves a sticky feeling on your throat, and soon  make you feel thirsty, it is not refreshing".

5. Flavor Affiliations

Flavor Affiliations is important as the plate most importantly must  be delicious, palatable and lingering. Be creative. You may set themes like Summer, Winter, Spring and Fall..Asian, Local Filipino, Spanish, French etc. Always remember that some ingredients are rarely available, or not at all in Philippines. Some items are seasonal, some are too common, while there more that needs some tweaking and divine intervention:) to be the new trend.

Sweet, Sour, Spicy, Bitter, Tannin, Acidic, Refreshing, Cool, Warm, Floral, Earthy, Nutty,etc.

Learn to tweak regular favorites or infuse them with something that goes well together

Example:

Chocolate= Chocolate + Ginger + Vanilla bean
Peanut butter = Peanut butter + Green tea +Almond frangipane
Afternoon tea= Honey+Earl grey+ Rhum+ Figs + Rose water
Spring= Orange+ Maple+ Walnuts + Muesli

Try and try to make combinations, decide which one will be your main flavor, which one will be just a hint to your flavor perspective, which one must be dominant, which one needs another ingredient to strengthen the flavor notes.

Consistent R&D's are important. It is your practice and training. Always take notes and write everything you put together, put grammage or measurements. Most importantly, take note and write the comments and your mistakes.

6. Cohesiveness and Function of Components

Each components must serve a function. Just like an organization, each members play their own task to contribute to the whole system. Each components provide what will bring cohesiveness on the plate. The sauce may give acidity on a chocolate plate, a fresh fruit salsa may be the sub component, tuile may be the garnish that provides crunch to the velvety smooth mousse. On this plate, an addition of milk froth is unnecessary because it doesn't have a purpose, it doesn't go well together.

Cohesiveness is difficult to achieve and sometimes not achieved at all when there is too much going on the plate. Too much flavors is distracting. Too much components is overwhelming. It may propose that the plate consists of ideas that each on their own are good but does not work right when put all together.

When your plate lacks cohesiveness, it means that it needs more working out to do. Practice more, about 4 to 6 times until you get it right. However, it falls under one's judgement if the idea is worth of another try. It could be expensive to practice and practice but "It is continuous practice that makes one competitor prepared. If you come unprepared, you will get nervous, then the game plan is crashed" -Chef Jackie Ang-Po
You may try recipes on small batches.

7. Variety of Textures 

Visual Textures can be velvety,  smooth, shiny  rough,rustic.. also comes from shapes, color schemes, pointed edges, curves ect. That when put together creates a nice impression, sometimes illusion to the plate.

There is also Textures that has more depth. The crispness of port wine for example. Chewyness of cookies, crunchyness of the chips, crystals in sugar, smoothness of the mousse, gummyness of the ice cream, rubbery strawberry leather and so on that registers through a mouthfeel.

8. Portion Size

Portion size is important. Dessert plates can be overwhelming or underwhelming. The chef must determine " the too much or too little".  Each course from appetizers, amuse bouche, main entree up to desserts follow an approximate standard  serving size. The key is to take consideration that desserts is served after the main entree, making the dessert serving size smaller than a meal, but enough to finish the course with a nice impression. 

Dessert came from the word "desservir" meaning to clear the table. This explains why it must be served last. 

9. Enough Sauce

Sauce is served as a component to the plate. It must go along the flavor affiliations. Sometimes it adds acid to the plate, sometimes it is all you need to complete the plate. Sauce also adds color to the plate, however, it must not be confused with Garnish. It must be spooned with the right consistency on ample amount. Not too much that the dessert sits on a pool of sauce, not too little that it does not serve the purpose.

10. Proper Execution of Method

This simply means that if you decide to work on a method or theme, give your very best to execute it. If you are not familiar or skilled on that method, practicing will serve its highest purpose. If you decide to make something made of something, know to stand by it. If you decide to put a squared chocolate decor, cut them into perfect squares. If you will velvet spray a mousse, spray it carefully without imperfections. Do not make anything at all if you will not make it delicious and beautiful. "What's the point of cake if it's ugly?" - Gail Simmons

11.. Food Safety and Sanitation

Food Safety and proper sanitation must be observed even on desserts. Do not touch cooked or good as ready to eat items with your hands. The less hand, the better. Desserts must be also handled like how you handle poultry and meat. Dairy based items like custards and mousse must be kept chilled. Use clean tools and equipment, sanitize them. Wipe them with dry towels. Do not use soiled kitchen towels when wiping your china. Use food grade materials when sourcing from the hardware or thrift markets.

12. Practicality

Practical and Up to date presentation is often required. You don't want to serve a stack of desserts that the guest will take time to disassemble before eating. You might also consider distributing your soft textures and layer them over hard textures instead of in reverse. You don't like to be served a block of hard cookie crust that covers your soft served ice cream that the fork can't even slice. Presentation is encouraged to be practical enough to be replicated for plated service. It should also determine which component to be eaten first. It should not give the guest a feeling of confusion on how the dessert must be eaten, you have to remember that you want them to finish your dessert with a good experience that lingers over time.

In all, practice and to practice and to practice is the key in winning and creating your award winning dessert. Read books, research, study and most importantly, work them out. One does not simply learn to ride the bicycle by reading a manual, he must ride the bike and tumble down.

I'm pleased to share you the few lessons I learned. Each competitions I join creates an experience, each mistakes add up to the lessons learned. I have a very very long way to go.. I hope that one day I will be able to create another entry to update this entry and to learn far more. Happy baking!


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